Post by Snareman on Feb 17, 2005 22:45:33 GMT -5
I've had several years now to hone my craft when it comes to snaring this bundle of muscle! I've found a few misnomers about snaring otter, but the fact they can destroy a snare is NOT one of them. LOL!
Snaring otter has always been a mystique for many, but wanted to share a tip or two about them and some of my opinions on why I have been successfull doing so...
First, otter snaring has to be a neck targeting proposition only. While I have aimed at live catching otter and have done it successfully, one could accurately conclude there was a small element of luck. Otter are not that hard to kill in a snare. They have firm muscles, little collar hair, unlike a coyote and they have soft vein/artery tissue. These arteries collapse easier when compressed against muscle allowing the restricting nature of a snare to dispatch them. Couple that with the tenacity the otter has, it's common for them to take themself out right quick if the neck is caught.
I use 5/64" 7x7 cable on the loop end and sometimes use 3/32" on the tail end. The otter snares I use are double-swivelled. One is located near the open loop and the other is on the anchor end. The loops are loaded for a fast close and nice loop shape good for otter.
In targeting the neck, one has to have the specifics of the snare at location just right. Now, not all 2 locations are the same, but for the most part, here's what I use. I like a 5 3/4" loop about 4" off the ground, ice or walking surface. I also like to fence or guide the loop on both sides of the loop to make it more inviting to enter the snare. Light guiding is all that is necessary. I also don't use anything under the snare. Anything placed under the snare should be called a "step over". Things placed under the snare disrupt the cadence the animal has and has them break stride. I like the otter to come in naturally without concentrating what's on the ground in front of them.
Besides having a snare that slides easy and quick, I like to use either #9 or #11 as a support wire and have it only as long as necessary. A support wire that is flimsy or flexes with the snare as it closes, allows the otter to get into the snare further before firing.(not good) A stiff support facilitates a quicker set and increases your neck catch ratio as the otter won't get in the loop as deep.
If you picture the open snare loop like the face of a clock, I like to have the lock at about the 11 or 1 O'clock position. If you have the lock too far off to one side, you are essentially making the snare fire too hard which takes more force to get it to close. Locks too far off to one side take considerably more force to get the closing started. You want some sensitivity to an otter snare, but not too light where it drops on it's own by a light bump or wind gusts. When you have the lock too far off to one side, you are promoting a body catch, which is a huge NO NO in otter snaring. Remember, we're targeting the neck here.
A good snare combination is a good start in snaring otter. The other is a good neck catch... then you need entanglement. Entanglement can either be natural to the area like small trees, larger brush, etc. If the location is good, but there is no appropriate entanglement, you can pound a long trap stake off to the side of the trail where snare is set for the otter to wrap on. This is called a tangle stake.
These are some things that will get you a body catch:
A slow closing snare.
A loop set with lock too far off to one side.
A loop set too low.
A support wire that flexes when snare is engaged.
Setting anything under the snare for otter to STEP OVER.
A loop set too large.
Bottom loop gets stepped on as it's engaged by otter.
Otter may travel in some large family groups and is one good reason to gang set snares heavily. Another reason is that you could miss an otter, but have him up the trail in your next snare.
Otter snaring is fun for me and I have to knock on wood as I have never lost an otter in a snare yet. In the beginning I have to admit there was more luck involved than I care to admit, but after that, my techniques have evolved.
One last thing... it's a wise thing to check your otter snares as early in the day as you can. The longer you have a live body caught otter in a snare, your chances diminish for a successful catch. If the situation allows it, setting up an otter snare on a drowner rig, is good business! Hope some of this helps. If you have any advice on snaring these bad boys, that would be great! While I'm far from being a top otter snareman, these tips have helped me tremendously and hopefully they will help you too. If you have used other cable size or lay with good results, I'd like to hear that.
How has otter snaring been for you?
Good Luck,
Snareman
Snaring otter has always been a mystique for many, but wanted to share a tip or two about them and some of my opinions on why I have been successfull doing so...
First, otter snaring has to be a neck targeting proposition only. While I have aimed at live catching otter and have done it successfully, one could accurately conclude there was a small element of luck. Otter are not that hard to kill in a snare. They have firm muscles, little collar hair, unlike a coyote and they have soft vein/artery tissue. These arteries collapse easier when compressed against muscle allowing the restricting nature of a snare to dispatch them. Couple that with the tenacity the otter has, it's common for them to take themself out right quick if the neck is caught.
I use 5/64" 7x7 cable on the loop end and sometimes use 3/32" on the tail end. The otter snares I use are double-swivelled. One is located near the open loop and the other is on the anchor end. The loops are loaded for a fast close and nice loop shape good for otter.
In targeting the neck, one has to have the specifics of the snare at location just right. Now, not all 2 locations are the same, but for the most part, here's what I use. I like a 5 3/4" loop about 4" off the ground, ice or walking surface. I also like to fence or guide the loop on both sides of the loop to make it more inviting to enter the snare. Light guiding is all that is necessary. I also don't use anything under the snare. Anything placed under the snare should be called a "step over". Things placed under the snare disrupt the cadence the animal has and has them break stride. I like the otter to come in naturally without concentrating what's on the ground in front of them.
Besides having a snare that slides easy and quick, I like to use either #9 or #11 as a support wire and have it only as long as necessary. A support wire that is flimsy or flexes with the snare as it closes, allows the otter to get into the snare further before firing.(not good) A stiff support facilitates a quicker set and increases your neck catch ratio as the otter won't get in the loop as deep.
If you picture the open snare loop like the face of a clock, I like to have the lock at about the 11 or 1 O'clock position. If you have the lock too far off to one side, you are essentially making the snare fire too hard which takes more force to get it to close. Locks too far off to one side take considerably more force to get the closing started. You want some sensitivity to an otter snare, but not too light where it drops on it's own by a light bump or wind gusts. When you have the lock too far off to one side, you are promoting a body catch, which is a huge NO NO in otter snaring. Remember, we're targeting the neck here.
A good snare combination is a good start in snaring otter. The other is a good neck catch... then you need entanglement. Entanglement can either be natural to the area like small trees, larger brush, etc. If the location is good, but there is no appropriate entanglement, you can pound a long trap stake off to the side of the trail where snare is set for the otter to wrap on. This is called a tangle stake.
These are some things that will get you a body catch:
A slow closing snare.
A loop set with lock too far off to one side.
A loop set too low.
A support wire that flexes when snare is engaged.
Setting anything under the snare for otter to STEP OVER.
A loop set too large.
Bottom loop gets stepped on as it's engaged by otter.
Otter may travel in some large family groups and is one good reason to gang set snares heavily. Another reason is that you could miss an otter, but have him up the trail in your next snare.
Otter snaring is fun for me and I have to knock on wood as I have never lost an otter in a snare yet. In the beginning I have to admit there was more luck involved than I care to admit, but after that, my techniques have evolved.
One last thing... it's a wise thing to check your otter snares as early in the day as you can. The longer you have a live body caught otter in a snare, your chances diminish for a successful catch. If the situation allows it, setting up an otter snare on a drowner rig, is good business! Hope some of this helps. If you have any advice on snaring these bad boys, that would be great! While I'm far from being a top otter snareman, these tips have helped me tremendously and hopefully they will help you too. If you have used other cable size or lay with good results, I'd like to hear that.
How has otter snaring been for you?
Good Luck,
Snareman
