Do snares need to be darkened?

[blindhog]

Especially intended for otter, will shiny or even boiled in baking soda be noticed by the wary otter? I have soaked cable in red oak bark solution before for conibear tiedowns and they are very hard to see. Does anyone darken or just boil in soda, or use shiny cable?

Locks and aluminum ferrules bother me too, I don't want the otter to be distracted by anything when approaching the loop.

Am I being paranoid? Good! Attention to detail is critical in most endeavors I know of.

Would appreciate any replies from experienced snare men.

[45/70]

Not to black, in my opinion. Black is much to visable in some settings.

Galvanized cable can be weathered to a gray which is ok in many settings.

Cable holds water and can rust from the inside, the rust not being noticable to the eye until it is too late. This is probably not a problem if the snare is used within a year, but if held over snares can be weakened by rust.

The more the snare is boiled, i.e. cleaned and/or degreased in lye and/or soda, and then dyed, the more likely they are apt to hold moisture. Drying snares after treatment is more critical than with traps. If I have built and treated snares and they have had multiple exposures to water, I hang them on a line in the sunshine (warm/hot days), and hope for some wind. While the weather is good, I will let them hang for several days. A note on 1X19 cable. This cable is oily when received, and must be cleaned. Be particularly careful to make sure this cable is thoroughly dry.

Many of the snares I use, I build of stainless 7X7. This stuff won't take dye, and won't gray over. I have always sprayed painted these snares well before the season. I camo these snares in various shadings.

For the first time, this year, I used Formula One on some of my snares -- trying it out. So far, I have been pleased with the results, and will be using more. These colors can be mixed to get various shadings, such as a weathered-beaver- stick-gray, tan, olive drab etc.

Using spray paint or Formula One, makes the point of bright hardware moot. However, if you do dye they will not take the dye.

I use a steel lock that will take dye. I often use copper ferrules which will darken with age.
Most of my swivels are L-swivels that will take dye. If the aluminum fittings still draw the eye, a short shot of spray paint will take care of it.

Adios,
45/70,
RKBA !!!

[Snareman]

I have snared many different animals, including otter, with bright shiney new snares to know it works. I don't make a habit of it! Often there is snow where I am at and a new snare blends in better than with brown or darker colored snares.

It depends where you are at for a dark snare to blend in. As the excellent post from 45/70 stated, snares can be painted to best match your surroundings. I've spray painted many snares from ordinary paint from the hardware store and have had good success using various colors.

I don't think you are being paranoid. Anything you do to create a situation where your snares are noticed less both visually and olfactory, will pay long term dividends not usually noticed by some not keeping track. A new snare will not remain new looking for long while set in the woods enduring the sun and rain. It will slowly oxidize and change to a grey color.

Good Luck!

Snareman

[blindhog]

Thanks Bill for the great info, I may have to try some of that formula one. I too have given the fittings a shot of spray paint, either flat gray or flat green, or a little black enough to dull the shine. Water animals like mink, otter, coon make their living by noticing shiny food critters so I don't want them noticing my snare.

I had good luck with the crimper you recommended to me, it makes a good strong crimp and didn't cost much.

I didn't buy any knife wheel yet, still thinking about it though.

Thanks again for the reply. Ron

[snaresRcool]

45/70,
Would you mind going into details about that L-swivel you mentioned?