glen
New Member
Posts: 9
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Post by glen on Jul 16, 2005 7:53:24 GMT -5
what and how is the best way to load snare cable
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Post by 45/70 on Jul 16, 2005 20:34:12 GMT -5
Cut your cable to length. Hang across some sort of smooth 1/2" or so steel rod. Both ends of the cable should be pointing straight down. If they are, not don't waste your time. The cable is cast, and any lock will try and spin around the cable as the snare closes. If the cable is straight, grasp each end of the cable, and "shoe shine" it back and forth across the cable, a few times. What you are doing is tightening the memory of the cable. I sometimes load a snare in the woods, if I need one and am out. With a pair of gloves on, grasp the cable just forward of the lock, and with your thumb to the inside of the loop, pull the snare thru your grasp tightly across your thumb (that's why the gloves), 4-6" a few times. You can test the load on the snare by firing it. If it does not suit you, pull some more set into it. Adios, 45/70, RKBA !!!
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Post by sinrud on Jul 16, 2005 22:40:16 GMT -5
Loading a snare depends on the type of cable and other factors. With 1x19 cable you can easily load a made snare using a screwdriver and your thumb by sliding the cable between them like curling a ribon. This is done typlically at the neck lock end to about 1/3 the circumfrence of your noose size. Minor shape adjustments can be easily done in the same fashion.
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Post by MChewk on Jul 17, 2005 6:56:02 GMT -5
Good info guys...question....does the type of lock used determine the necessity of loading a cable? Some lock designs seem to "need" loading others don't....whats your take?
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Post by 45/70 on Jul 17, 2005 12:13:42 GMT -5
I believe that the species of animal targeted has a lot to do with if one loads a snare or not. I always load my cat snares and otter snares. With an unloaded snare, a cat will sometimes back out. I think this may be caused in part by the zip of the snare closing. Heavy locks contribute to this noise and increase it. Brushing the snare loop with his ears or sideburns may also contribute. What ever causes it, if the snare is only partly closed, he can back out on you. Cats are peculiar in this behavior. Most animals will try and bull on thru, but not necessarily a cat. A loaded snare, with it's increased speed, stops a lot of these misses.
I use a small, light weight lock that I make for myself. This is a very fast lock, and being light in weight produces almost no zipping sound when it closes. I believe another advantage to a small lock is that it has less initial inertia to overcome than some of the larger/heavier locks. This means a small/light lock with a loaded snare will be closing (if not closed) while heavier lock (even if it is on a loaded snare) is just sitting there.
With otter, I want him dead now, right now. I don't want to run any chance of him breaking a cable. This more often happens with a body catch. One of the ways I use in combinations with others to eliminate body catches is by loading my otter snares.
I have not snared for coon in many years. I am told by folks that are high numbers coonmen that a loaded snare will significantly reduce the numbers of coon snared w/one leg thru the snare and/or body catches. I do not know this from actual practice, but it is what I have been told by people I believe.
And hey, I think that a screwdriver shaft might be less damaging to my thumb. I'm going to try that. Thanks! There are times I am slow, but I am usually slower.
Some folks load all their snares. Newt Sterling told me that he loads all the snares that he builds both for his own use and for sale. Others only load snares used for particular uses.
I hope that this is of some benefit to some of you.
Adios, 45/70, RKBA !!!
Adios, 45/70, RKBA !!!
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